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St Giles Cemetery
Few passers-by appreciate the grim history of what was once the village of Spital St Giles or Spital Boughton. Over the years, this small patch of land has been visited by each of death, war and pestilence (for famine, see below).
The Cemetery at the Crossroads
St Giles Cemetery is found at Boughton, just where the road towards Tarvin splits into two around a John Douglas half-timbered building (which was originally the Post Office and later a much-loved model and toy shop). Douglas also rebuilt the nearby St Paul's Church another local landmark.
This ancient crossroads has been said to be the meeting place of two Roman roads, the Tarvin Road (A51) and the Whitchurch Road (A41). Tarvin road is definitely Roman, but there is some doubt about the Whitchurch (Mediolanum) Road - although cropmarks from Huntington, through Saighton towards Hatton probably show the line of a minor Roman road branching off the Dee valley route. Sandy Lane provides access to the south and possibly some branch of Hoole Lane or Church/Whealstone/Newton Lane also ended hereabouts. So it is a cemetery by a 'crossroads' of sorts, often said to be a place of ill-omen.
The "cross-roads" may also be that alluded to by Lucian the Monk writing in about 1200:
- "The native of Chester remembers how three roads branch off outside Eastgate and how beautiful and pleasing are the names of the places to which they lead. The road straight in front leads to Christ's Town (Christleton), that on the right to the Old Ford (Aldford) but if it turns to the left it comes to a place which they rightly call the Valley of Demons (Hoole) with reference to the hiding places of those who lie in wait... the wanderer... is despoiled by thieves and robbers"
Lucien is sometimes short on detail - we cannot be sure which road junction he is referring to in his description - is this outside the Eastgate at the branch of Frodsham/Foregate/St John streets? or the various junctions at Boughton? Most likely Lucien is picking and chosing his roads and combining them in a non-geographical way: he is writing an allegory not a guidebook.
The cemetery is the grass mound surrounded by a wall and is obviously very full. There are only a few gravestones. At the western end of the cemetery is a drinking fountain (one wonders where the water comes from! - although the springs hereabouts have supplied Chester with water since Roman times) erected by a Ms Humble of Christleton in 1872. Alternate sides of hexagon fountain have drinking spouts and inscribed panels:
- "PRESENTED TO THE CITY OF CHESTER BY MISS HUMBLE OF VICARS CROSS IN MEMORY OF THE LATE ED. HUMBLE AND THE... WHO RESIDED HERE : AND THEY BROUGHT TO HIM ALSO INFANTS THAT HE WOULD TOUCH THEM BUT WHEN THE DISCIPLES SAW IT THEY REBUKED THEM, BUT JESUS CALLED THEM UNTO HIM AND SAID SUFFER LITTLE CHILDREN... WHOSOEVER DRINKETH OF THIS WATER SHALL THIRST BUT WHOSOEVER DRINKETH OF THE WATER THAT GIVETH LIFE SHALL NEVER... BUT THE WATER THAT I SHALL GIVE HIM... LIFE".
Above the fountains, which have semicircular basins of polished granite, is inscribed "BE PITIFUL BE COURTEOUS : LOVE AS BRETHREN : BE YE OF ONE MIND". This drinking fountain was the starting point for the Salvation Army march which led to the events of Black Sunday (Sunday 26 March 1882).

Like most Roman military settlements, Roman Chester had a large legionary bath complex for the soldiers to wash and to use for leisure time (the remains of which are in Bridge Street). It has been estimated that the baths used between 500,000 and 750,000 litres of water a day, which was supplied from the springs in Boughton. Water was piped in large lead pipes underground from a branch off the main aqueduct near the Eastgate, downhill to the baths on Bridge Street. The water was then held in large tanks with concrete foundations, and then fed through the complex. Waste water would have been fed downhill using gravity to the river.
The inscription on a stone slab marking the cemetery reads:
- "Here stood the Leper hospital and chapel of St Giles founded early in the 12th Century and endowed by successive Norman earls of Chester they remained in constant use until 1643 when defensive measures during the siege of Chester necessitated the demolition of buildings outside the city walls. The cemetery remained to mark the site and in time the little village of Spital clustered round it. In 1644 the royalist defenders suffered great loss of life in a gallant sortie in Boughton and many of the fallen were buried here. It was also used for victims of the plagues which ravaged the city in the 16th and 17th centuries. Being extra-parochial the site was granted to the corporation by Charles II in 1685 as a burial ground and through a period in the charge of St John's parish it remains in their hands. When the protestant martyr George Marsh was burnt at the stake on Gallows Hill close by his ashes were collected by his friends and buried here.The last burial took place in 1854."
It is worth noting that the sortie referred to may be that of Sunday 12 November 1643 (not 44), when Royalists sallied out of Chester towards Tarvin (see below, under "war"). 1644 saw no significant action this close to Chester which after the Royalist defeat at Nantwich in January 1644 was supplied early in February with troops from Ireland and visited in March by Prince Rupert. Rupert would leave Chester to capture Liverpool and then suffer a crushing defeat at Marston Moor on 2nd July. On the 25th July Rupert was back in Chester and occupying a forward position at Tarvin with 800 horse. Tarvin was lost to the Parliamentarians in August, but it was not until January 1645 that the Parliamentarians occupied Christleton. The Royalists made a complete hash of their attempt to dislodge them and retreated back to Boughton where they defended themselves well against Parliamentarian probing attacks on the 26th January. In February 1645 the Royalists made a further assault on Christleton and were again massacred losing around 80 officers and men. As revenge, Charles sent Princes Rupert and Maurice, his two nephews, to Christleton to burn the village to the ground.
For more information on the Water Supply of Chester see the entries on Number #1 Bridge Street, Bridgegate and The Abbot's Well. For more on drinking fountains in Chester and their link to the Temperance Movement see: Garston.
Pestilence - St Giles Hospital (see also: Pandemic)
A leper hospital dedicated to St. Giles (patron saint of the lame) was located nearby. It is sometimes confused with the Boughton chapel which belonged to the convent of St. Werburgh's and stood in the fork of the Tarvin and Christleton Roads. The hospital is said to have been founded by Ranulf de Blondeville, earl of Chester but the hospital possibly existed before 1181 as 20 shillings. a year was paid to the 'infirm' of Chester during the minority of Ranulph and that sum was paid in the 14th century to the lepers of Boughton as "ancient alms". Ranulph gave an annual rent charge of 10s. to St. Werburgh's from which the monks were to feed 100 paupers once a year and to give 20d. a year to the lepers of Boughton to commemorate his father Hugh de Kevelioc. Another foundation of Henry II.’s reign was the leper-hospital of St Mary Magdalen at Sponne, outside the walls of Coventry. It was founded by:
- ".. an Earl of Chester, who, having a certain leprous knight in his household, gave in pure alms for the health of his soul and the souls of his ancestors his chapel at Sponne with the site thereof, and half a carucate of land for the maintenance of such lepers as should happen to be in the town of Coventry. There was one priest to celebrate, and with him were wont to be also certain brethren or sisters together with the lepers, praying to God for the good estate of all their benefactors."
The earl in question is believed to have been Hugh de Kevelioc, and the knight who came down with leprosy, William de Auney, was one that he has sent on crusade in his stead. Evidently that implies that Hugh had taken the Crusader's Vow. This was a legally binding obligation to make a risky trip to the Middle-East and there engage in battle under dreadful conditions: safe return was often doubtful. The benefit of the vow was absolution from sin, with a short stint in the Middle-East presumably being viewed as a better alternative to roasting in hell for somewhat longer. Even better still, it was possible to escape the obligation by sending another knight in one's place, which the evidence suggests that the earl did.
The inmates of the hospital enjoyed extensive privileges, which included a toll on all food bought for sale in Chester and the right to have a fishing boat on the Dee. The hospital also came to possess land and rents in and near Chester - some came to the hospital with new inmates: land in Eastgate Street was given by the relatives of Yseult, who, "smitten by the scourge of a visitation from on high", had been admitted to the hospital.
When Henry III annexed the earldom of Chester after 1237 he proved a generous patron of the hospital. Between 1237 and 1240 he gave £5 yearly and in 1238-9 and 1240 additional grants of 10 marks towards its maintenance. Henry visited Chester in late August or early September 1241. Later in the same month of Henry’s visit, the following was entered in the Liberate rolls:
- To John le Strange, justice of Chester. Contrabreve to cause the brethren of the hospital of St Giles, Chester, to have 70s out of the issues of co Chester as two parts of the alms of the expenses of the king’s household while he was at Chester.
It is likely, that Henry promised these alms to the lepers while he was at Chester. One other religious house, the Benedictine priory of nuns of St Mary also founded by the earls of Chester, received alms too at this time; they were given 35s – one-quarter of the alms. The fact that half of his allocated alms from his visit were given to the leper-house, despite the abundance of other monasteries, friaries and hospitals in the area, implies that the king had a particular concern for the lepers, and this money may well have been promised to them during a visit to this leper-house. Henry appears to have taken his responsibility towards the house at Chester seriously during this period. In 1243, he gave the house 30s "of the king’s gift" to buy clothes and other necessities. In 1245, the king confirmed the obligation of the justice of Chester, John de Grey, to ensure that the lepers received their penny tithe (decimo denario) from the sale of pigs from the king’s larder "as they received them in the times of the counts of Chester". Seven years later, Henry made a significant gift "of the king’s favour", of £10, towards buying further clothes for the lepers there.
The king also provided specific support for individual lepers. One of the residents at the house of St Giles at Chester, until 1241 at least, was an Amice de Costentin. In this year, Henry ordered the justice of Chester (John le Strange) to pay 1d a day to Amice, a leper, for her maintenance, the same sum allocated by Henry to feeding individual paupers at his palace at Westminster. Amice had evidently been in the leper-house for four years at least, as she had been accustomed to receiving this sum "in the time of earl John". The earls of Chester had held a ‘significant’ amount of land in Normandy the twelfth century, which was further augmented in 1199 through a gift of land in western Normandy from King John, as a reward for the earl’s support of the monarch and also through the marriage in 1204 of Earl Ranulph to Clemence of Fougères. It is probable that Amice was a native of the Cotentin, western Normandy, who was connected to the earls, and had arrived in England with the household after the fall of Normandy and the earl’s loss of lands there in 1204.

The association with St Johns is evident from the much damaged statue above the doorway of St Johns. This shows the figure of St Giles (and his hind) whose patronage extended to many forms of disability, and to leprosy and lepers.
The relations of the hospital with the citizens of Chester and the monks of St. Werburgh's were not always happy. Around 1300 the masters were involved in legal disputes concerning detention of rents, tolls or alms, the Dee fishery, and usury. The privilege of collecting the tolls was still being claimed in 1499 and exercised in 1537 when the city authorities pointed out that, whereas the privilege had originally been granted to relieve the sick, the inmates of the hospital were by now able-bodied; it was ordered that admissions should be confined to the sick of the city of Chester on penalty of loss of the market tolls. Also in 1537 the inmates were forbidden to wash food or clothes in the newly built conduit at Boughton (which transported water from the Boughton springs to the town and abbey, see: Water Supply) and were ordered to prevent their animals damaging the conduit and to see that the pipes were properly covered.
The hospital escaped dissolution under the Act of 1547, probably because of its charitable activities. In 1553 the master was given custody of two small bells in the chapel, a silver chalice, and a paten weighing four ounces; the communion book and the other goods in the chapel, which were not worth selling, were given to the inmates. By the early 17th century the cottages which made up the hospital seem to have become heritable properties. In 1606 the seven inmates, six men and one woman, agreed not to receive vagabonds and beggars into their houses, to ring their swine, and to fence the hospital lands. Despite having become a community of the well rather than the infirm they still enjoyed relief from certain "taxes": in 1629 the right of the brothers and sisters of the hospital to be free of the payment of pannage (for roads), pontage (for bridges) and murage (for the walls) was confirmed.
The hospital of St. Giles did not survive the Civil War. During the seige of Chester the defending Royalist forces destroyed almost everything outside of the City Walls which could give shelter to the besieging Parliamentary forces. In July 1643 the Chester garrison:
- "fired all the barns without the Turnpikes at Boughton, pulled down to the ground the old chapel there and the stone barn against it, ruinated all the houses there, cut down the trees, and so levelled the hedges as the rebels could have no shelter on that side" (Account of Randle Holme).
The "Turnpikes" here is a reference to the Bars at the head of Dee Lane. The displaced inmates complained to the then mayor that while they were helping to defend the besieged city, the soldiers destroyed their houses and plundered their possessions.
In 1657 the master retrieved one of the chapel bells from the Pentice but it was never re-hung in a new hospital and in 1660 the restored Charles II granted to the mayor and citizens of Chester all the lands of "the hospital or late hospital of Boughton, otherwise Spittle Boughton".
By the time of Joeseph Hemingway, writing in the 1830's there appears to have been some sort of "asylum" hereabouts for single women who had become pregnant. Hemmingway shows that while some prejudices had been recognised by the 1830's others had not:
- "On this spot, George March, an early reformer, suffered martyrdom, an unfortunate victim of the diabolical bigotry of the infamous Queen Mary, for conscientious scruples. Opposite the Spittal is that humane institution, the Penitentiary for unfortunate females."
War - The Civil War
As noted on the inscription, a sortie of the Royalists took place here. In fact, the back of the stone is inscribed:
- "I H S : MANY UNKNOWN ARE BURIED HERE NOTABLY THE LEPERS FROM THE 12TH CENTURY TO 1643, SOLDIERS WHO FELL IN THE BATTLE OF GREAT BOUGHTON 1644 AND NUMEROUS VICTIMS OF THE PLAGUE"
Boughton was captured by Michael Jones in 1645 as part of the larger engagement that culminated at Rowton Heath and in the Battle of Hoole Heath - note that the inscription refers to 1644. The Royalists counter-attacked, but is perhaps better described as a suicidal charge. Jones went on to be appointed Governor when Chester finally surrendered on 6 February 1646, but for reasons that are unclear, he fell out with Brereton, who arranged for his transfer to Ireland. Pestilence, in the form of a fatal fever, caught up with Jones at the Siege of Waterford in December 1649.
The actual sortie referred to may be that of Sunday 12 November 1643, when Royalists sallied out of Chester towards Tarvin — which was garrisoned by Parliament under the command of Captain Gerard — but the Royalists were intercepted at Stamford Bridge on the River Gowy and prevented from crossing it. The two sides skirmished all the afternoon but then Parliamentary reinforcements from Cholmondeley arrived to assist Gerard and they drove the Royalists back, following them to Boughton and eventually into Gorse Stacks, where the Parliamentarians killed some of the Royalists right under the city walls. The Parliamentarians' only casualty was one man wounded. In both the 1643 and 1645 fighting the dead possibly added to the crowding in St Giles cemetery. The 1644 date is most likely due to the dating convention used at the time: before 1752 the start of a new year was 25 March of what we consider the following year. So the actual date is what we would call 1645.
On an even more macabre note, local legend has it that one of the earls of Chester (Hugh de Kevelioc) cobbled the road here with the "sculls of defeated Welshmen". The Chester Chronicle for the year 1169 records:
- "Hic natus Ranulphus III. filius Hugonis comes Cestrie. In hoc etiam anno interfecit Hugo comes Cestrie magnam multitudinem Walensium juxta pontem de Baldert de quorum capitibus factum unum de aggeribus apud Hospitalem infirmorum extra Cestriam" (This year Randle III., son of Hugh, earl of Chester, was born. In this year also Hugh, earl of Chester, slew a great multitude of Welshmen, near the bridge of Baldert, of whose heads one of the mounds at the hospital for the sick outside Chester is formed.)
This is almost certainly the result of a confusion between Boughton and Broughton. Owain ap Gruffydd of Gwynedd had been in open rebellion against Henry II since autumn 1164 and there was a clash c.1169 at the "bridge of Baldert", possibly at Balderton (near Dodleston), south of Chester, with the mound actually having been built at Broughton.
"War" of another kind broke out on the 26th March 1882, sometimes known as Black Sunday. The local Salvation Army marched somewhat provocatively through the very impoverished Irish Catholic district around Steven Street, where it was attacked by "a mob", of a type often said to be known as the Skeleton Army.
Famine - Antique Shops
The area used to have many "junk" and antique shops and, while there are fewer today, it is still worth visiting. It seems that "famine" has also now arrived in Spital St Giles, as these are slowly closing. One of the most atmospheric, now sadly gone, was a rambling shambles with an upstairs room filled with ancient Grandfather Clocks - all running and very spooky.

Nearby St Paul's was described by the architectural historian Nikolaus Pevsner as "the boldest of Douglas' church designs". The first church on the site was built in 1830 in stuccoed brick. Its style was Italianate with round-headed windows and a northwest campanile. The architect of the original building was William Cole the younger.
It was virtually rebuilt in 1876 by Douglas. Pevsner commented that the strength of the interior lies in its timber-work. The walls are decorated with stencilled patterns in the Arts and Crafts manner. The wrought iron screen is by Douglas. The stained glass dated 1887 in the north aisle is by Kempe and that in the baptistry is by Frampton. The rest of the stained glass was made by Morris & Co. Two of the windows were designed by Burne-Jones, others by Morris himself, and the latest windows dating from 1925 to 1927 are by Henry Dearle. The reredos is a war memorial dated 1920 by Liverpool artist Henry Gustave Hiller.
The church clock was installed in the spire in 1905 was paid for by the legacy of Nessie Brown (she also paid for the nearby monument to George Marsh). The clock is of the "Lord Kelvin Compensating Balance" type and was believed to be accurate, averaged over a year, to three seconds a week (Chester Courant 3rd May 1905). Miss Brown's motive in installing such an accurate clock may have been been pronpted by the frequent complaints from the inhabitants of Chester about the Trams that:
- "the Corporation should add a little more to the expenditure by providing, wheie necessary, watches for the drivers, and see that they are at correct time each morning before turning out, that the men could rely upon them, and not have to trust to any clock they may see en route."
No sooner was the clock installed than a long debate with the Corporation started as to who should carry the cost of lighting it. This was not the only time that the subject of watches for those working in transport had come up in Chester. Robert Lewis Jones, manager at Chester Station had faced a similar problem: see Time.
St Paul's ceased to be a church in 2016, when it was closed by the Diocese, as it was found to be in very bad repair, and indeed in danger of sliding down the hill into the River Dee. St Paul's was named by the Victorian Society as one of the "Top Ten Heritage Buildings at Risk" for 2016.
Next to the church is Campbell Memorial Hall. This and the associated caretaker cottage are grade II listed buildings by the noted Chester architect Lockwood and were built in 1894.
Death - Gallows Hill
George Marsh

Nearby (about 75m towards Chester), at what is now Barrel Well Hill and was once Gallows Hill, stands the obelisk to George Marsh, an outspoken puritan preacher, from Bolton, who was burned at the stake (24 April 1555) on the north side of the road, after being tried by the Bishop of Chester. The gallows which once stood here is shown in both the Lavaux Map (1745) and earlier maps of Chester going back to that of Braun and Hogenberg (1581).
George Marsh was a farmer from Deane near Bolton, and, after his wife died, became a protestant preacher during the rather short reign of Edward VI. He was born in 1515, the son of Richard Marsh. Marsh himself had three children. King Edward VI died young and was succeeded by Mary, a catholic noted for burning protestants, hence her nickname "Bloody Mary". Marsh, after leaving his children with his mother-in-law, was hauled up in front of Robert Barton, a Bolton JP, at Smithills Hall and then sent off to Lathom House (the home of the Stanleys of Stanley Palace) to be questioned by the Earl of Derby and others. He was then sent off to Lancaster gaol for nearly a year. Marsh evidently continued to preach from his cell window, attracting some crowds. This came to the notice of George Coates (Cotes or Choates), catholic Bishop of Chester, who had him transferred to Chester. Foxes Book of Martyrs (1563) states that Marsh was:
- "..kept in close prison by George Cotes within his straight prison in Chester within the precinct of the Bishop’s house about the space of four months, not permitting him to have relief and comfort of his friends but giving charge unto the porter to mark who they were that asked for him, and to signify, their names unto him the said Bishop"
In his "History of the City of Chester" (1831) Joseph Hemingway states that Marsh was imprisoned beside the abbey gateway:
- "The two end houses adjoining the gate stand on the site of an old edifice, called the prison-house. On pulling down the latter, about five years ago, a narrow cell was discovered on the first floor, from which all light was excluded, in which, it is said, that martyr to popish cruelty, George Marsh, was immured, previous to his execution at Boughton."

To be fair to Bishop George Choates (Coates), he did give Marsh plenty of opportunity to recant, but evidently Marsh was quite an obstinate fellow - a Bolton legend has it that a mark on the stone floor of Smithills Hall is a "footprint" left by Marsh stamping his foot - so off to the pyre he went. The Green Room at Smithills where Marsh was questioned is considered to be the most haunted room in Smithills and the footprint is alleged to "run with blood" on the anniversary of Marsh’s death!
Marsh was eventually tried, not in in the Consistory Court of the Cathedral but in the Lady chapel which contains the shrine of Werburgh. Fox continues with his rather garbled account:
- "He underwent three examinations before Dr. Coles, who, finding him steadfast in the Protestant faith, began to read his sentence; but he was interrupted by the Chancellor, who prayed the bishop to stay before it was too late. The priest then prayed for Mr. Marsh, but the latter, upon being again solicited to recant, said he durst not deny his Saviour Christ, lest he lose his everlasting mercy, and so obtain eternal death. The bishop then proceeded in the sentence. He was committed to a dark dungeon, and lay deprived of the consolation of any one, (for all were afraid to relieve or communicate with him) till the day appointed came that he should suffer. The sheriffs of the city, Amry and Couper, with their officers, went to the north gate, and took out Mr. George Marsh, who walked all the way with the book in his hand, looking upon the same, whence the people said, This man does not go to his death as a thief, nor as one that deserveth to die."
The "dark dungeon" was possibly that beneath the Northgate location of the city gaol at the time, although he may well have been next to the Abbey Gateway.
A woodcut of Marsh's execution shows how the thoughtful inhabitants of Chester (the city can be seen in the background) had arranged a barrel of pitch/tar above his head so as to hasten his end (which didn't work too well).

Despite being offered a last-minute opportunity to recant (by the fellow on the horse - the Vice Chamberlain of Chester, whose name is variously given as Sawrey or Cawdry), a stubborn Marsh is uttering the words "not upon that condition" while the faggots are being lit. A rescue attempt by Sheriff Cowper failed. What exactly happened, is unclear, but the attempt was thwarted and Cowper fled – from Chester over the River Dee bridge at Farndon, to Holt in Wales and "freedom". As a result, his family were supposedly ruined, losing their lands - and there Cowper hid until Bloody Queen Mary died (in 1558). The reign of Mary I saw 289 men, women and children burnt at the stake and 112 died in prison. John Cowper, although previously deprived of his lands was mayor of Chester in 1561 (as Bloody Mary was dead by then, and Elizabeth was queen). Under Elizabeth John got some of his assets back, but not all of them.
The rest of the execution was something of a horror for Marsh, as there was a shortage of wood and the rather exposed fire kept blowing away from him or burning down as more wood was sought. Foxe continues:
- "The fire being unskilfully made, and the wind driving it in eddies, he suffered great extremity, which notwithstanding he bore with Christian fortitude. When he had been a long time tormented in the fire without moving, having his flesh so broiled and puffed up, that they who stood before him could not see the chain wherewith he was fastened, and therefore supposed that he had been dead, suddenly he spread abroad his arms, saying. Father of heaven have mercy upon me! and so yielded his spirit into the hands of the Lord. Upon this, many of the people said he was a martyr and died gloriously patient. This caused the bishop shortly after to make a sermon in the cathedral church, and therein he affirmed, that the said Marsh was a heretic, burnt as such, and was a firebrand in hell."
Bishop Choates did not long survive Marsh. After Marsh's execution, Choates preached a sermon denouncing Marsh as a heretic. He was subsequently stricken with a fatal venereal disease, seen as divine retribution. It is recorded in (one of the many versions of) Foxes Book of Martyrs that:
- "within short time after the just judgment of God appeared upon the said Bishop, who through his wicked and adulterous behaviour was (most shamefully it is to be spoken) burned with a harlot and died thereof"

The obelisk to George Marsh at Boughton was proposed by Nessie Brown of Richmond Bank, Boughton, in 1898. As recorded in the Courant of 15th June 1898 this replaced an earlier memorial stone. Once the news that Nessie was promoting the monument had spread a furore ensued. There was a considerable number of Catholics in the city and they staged a series of vehement protests as well as writing letters to the press as published on 27th April 1898 and 4th May 1898. Other letters took the opposite view - one of the 22nd June 1898 refers to the monument as:
- "an ornament to the city, a wholesome reminder to our children, and a permanent protest against the unscriptural claims and intolerant assumptions of the Papacy."
Despite all the hostile feeling engendered, the erection of the memorial finally received the sanction of the City Council having once been almost refused. The story made news far and wide the South Wales Daily News reported 27th December 1898:
- "The Roman Catholics of .Chester have protested against the erection in that city of a proposed monument to the Lancashire martyr George Marsh, who was burned for his Protestant principles in tho 16th oontury. The statue is the gift of Miss Nessie Brown, well-known philanthropist. The matter was discussed at a meeting of the Chester Town Council, when the motion for the rescinding of the permission to erect the statue was withdrawn."
One of the inscriptions carved on it is the name of the mayor in 1898/9, Dr Henry Stolterfoth - he also got his name on the Eastgate clock, although there is frequent disagreement about how his name should be spelt. Of course it probably helped Nessies argument that her brothers owned the Brown department store and that her brother William Brown had been Mayor of Chester 1886-87 and brother Charles was Mayor in 1880-81, 1883-85 and from 1891-3. It also helped that both were aldermen who elected Stoltefoth as reported in the Courant 16th November 1898. Stoltefoth's almost first act on being made Mayor and donning the gold and diamond-studded badge of office was to agree to the memorial and appoint Charles Brown his deputy. The badge of course has inscribed on the back:
- "Presented to the city by Miss Brown, on her brother, Charles Brown, Esq., being elected Mayor of Chester for the fourth time, November, 1900."
Nessies request to put up the monument could hardly be refused. The monument comprises a polished granite plinth and obelisk on a freestone ashlar base. The north face is inscribed "TO THE MEMORY OF GEORGE MARSH MARTYR WHO WAS BURNED TO DEATH NEAR THIS SPOT FOR THE TRUTHS SAKE APRIL 24TH 1555". The east side is inscribed "ERECTED BY NESSIE BROWN A.D. 1888". The west side is inscribed "GEORGE MARSH BORN AT DEAN COUNTY LANCASTER A.D. 1515". The south side is inscribed "HENRY STOLTERFOTH MAYOR 1898".
Other instances of Execution at Chester
John Plessington
Marsh wasn't the only person slain here. John Plessington was hung, drawn and quartered (or drawn, hung and quartered) in 1679. He was canonised on 25 October 1970 by Pope Paul VI as one of the "40 martyrs". In 1970, the Vatican selected 40 martyrs, men and women, lay and religious, to represent the full group of perhaps 300 known to have died for their faith and allegiance to the Church between 1535 and 1679. They each have their own day of memorial, but are remembered as a group on 25 October. The "press" of the time ascribe various forms of divine retribution on those who were the witnesses against him:

- "Pleasington appears to have been an inoffensive person, and to have lived on kindly terms with most of those with whom he came in contact, until the dreadful storm of the Popish Plot broke over the country, in 1678. When this '* hellish and damnable conspiracy, as the hysterical House of Commons called it, was proclaimed, which existed solely in the disordered and malignant imaginations of Titus Oates and his creatures, the feeling in the country ran so high that no priest's life was safe. There can be little doubt that the secret chamber in the chimney stack at Puddington, to which reference has just been made, was frequently in use at this time. Pleasington, about this period, incurred the anger of some neighbours by opposing a marriage between one of his flock and a Protestant gentleman, with the result that information was laid against him as a Romish priest. He was seized at Puddington in the following spring, carried to Chester, tried, found guilty, and sentenced to death. He was kept in Chester Castle for nine weeks, and on the 19th July, 1679, drawn on a hurdle to the place of execution outside the city, and after a pathetic speech met his end with courage. Of the three witnesses who gave evidence against him, one was crushed to death by an accident a few days before the execution ; another, we are told, died in a pigsty ; while the third lingered away in a state of misery and anguish." (TRANSACTIONS OF THE HISTORIC SOCIETY OF LANCASHIRE AND CHESHIRE VOL. LIII)
The "Popish Plot" was an entirely fictitious conspiracy alleged and purported by Titus Oates (aka "Titus the Liar") that between 1678 and 1681 gripped the Kingdoms of England and Scotland in anti-Catholic hysteria. At Cambridge University, he entered Gonville and Caius College in 1667 but transferred to St John's College in 1669; he left later the same year without a degree. A less than astute student, he was regarded by his tutor as "a great dunce", although he did have a good memory. While at Cambridge, he also gained a reputation for homosexuality and a "Canting Fanatical Way". By falsely claiming to have a degree, he gained a licence to preach from the Bishop of London. He was vicar of the parish of Bobbing in Kent, 1673–74, and then curate to his father at All Saints', Hastings. During this time Oates accused a schoolmaster in Hastings of sodomy with one of his pupils, hoping to get the schoolmaster's post. However, the charge was shown to be false and Oates himself was soon facing charges of perjury, but he escaped jail and fled to London. In 1675 he was appointed as a chaplain of the ship Adventurer in the Royal Navy. Oates visited Tangier with his ship, but was soon accused of buggery, which was a capital offence, and spared only because of his clerical status. He was dismissed from the navy in 1676.
In 1678 Oates and Israel Tonge, a fanatically anti-Catholic clergyman (who was widely believed to be insane), had written a large manuscript that accused the Catholic Church authorities of approving the assassination of Charles II. The Jesuits in England were to carry out the task. The manuscript also named nearly 100 Jesuits and their supporters who were supposedly involved in this assassination plot; nothing in the document was ever proven to be true. Tonge would pretend to find the document in the gallery of Sir Richard Barker's house at the Barbican, where Tonge was then living. So excited was Tonge by the contents of the Narrative that through his friend, the chemist Christopher Kirkby, who knew the King slightly, he managed to obtain an audience with Charles II, where he summarised Oates' claims. Charles soon became a complete sceptic about the Plot, but Tonge then took two crucial decisions: firstly he persuaded Oates to swear to the truth of his allegations before the much respected magistrate, Sir Edmund Berry Godfrey. Secondly he persuaded the King and Lord Treasurer Danby to put the matter before a full meeting of the Privy Council. At the hearing Tonge himself made a bad impression: his reputation for madness was well known, and he was "altogether smiled at". Oates on the other hand gave a superb performance: so detailed and convincing was his story that the Council ordered the arrest of all the leading Jesuits accused. The news of this, followed by the October 1678 murder of Godfrey (which remains unsolved), caused public hysteria to erupt. Anyone even suspected of being Catholic was driven out of London and forbidden to be within ten miles (16 km) of the city. William Staley, a young Catholic banker, made a drunken threat against the King and within 10 days was tried, convicted and executed for plotting to kill him. Oates, for his part, received a state apartment in Whitehall and an annual allowance. He soon presented new allegations, claiming assassins intended to shoot the King with silver bullets so the wound would not heal.
John Pressington was born in 1637 at Dimples Hall, Garstang, Lancashire, the son of Robert Plessington, a Royalist Roman Catholic, and Alice Rawstone, a family thus persecuted for both their religious and political beliefs. He was educated by the Jesuits at Scarisbrick Hall, then at the Royal College of Saint Alban at Valladolid, Spain, and then at Saint Omer Seminary in France. He was ordained in Segovia, Spain, on 25 March 1662. He returned to England in 1663 ministering to covert Catholics in the areas of Holywell and Cheshire, often hiding under the name John Scarisbrick. After returning to this country he served first at Holywell in North Wales, which retained a continuous Catholic presence after the Reformation, and then from 1670 as chaplain to the family of Edward Massey (d. 1674) at Puddington Old Hall near Chester. Where he was the tutor to the son, William (1658-1717). The Masseys had been well-known Catholics for years. In 1615 a popular ballad even mentioned the fact.
Plessington was exposed by the "priest hunter" Thomas Dutton. Upon his late December 1678 arrest Plessington was imprisoned for nine weeks, tried, and then hanged, drawn and quartered on the 19th July 1679 for the crime of being a Catholic priest. The three "witnesses" who gave evidence against him were Margaret Plat, a George Massey and Robert Wood. From the scaffold at Gallows Hill in Boughton, Cheshire, he spoke the following:
- "But I know it will be said that a priest ordayned by authority derived from the See of Rome is, by the Law of the Nation, to die as a Traytor, but if that be so what must become of all the Clergymen of the Church of England, for the first Protestant Bishops had their Ordination from those of the Church of Rome, or not at all, as appears by their own writers so that Ordination comes derivatively from those now living."
After about three years opinion began to turn against Oates. On 31 August 1681, Oates was told to leave his apartments in Whitehall, but remained undeterred and even denounced the King and the Duke of York. He was arrested for sedition, sentenced to a fine of £100,000 and thrown into prison. When James II acceded to the throne in 1685 he had Oates tried on two charges of perjury. The Bench which tried him was presided over by the formidable "hanging judge" George Jeffreys, 1st Baron Jeffreys, who conducted the trial in such a manner that Oates had no hope of acquittal, and the jury brought in the expected guilty verdict. The death penalty was not available for perjury and Oates was sentenced to be stripped of clerical dress, whipped through London twice, and imprisoned for life and pilloried every year (the penalties were so severe that it has been argued that Jeffreys was trying to kill Oates by ill-treatment). Oates spent the next three years in prison. At the accession of William of Orange and Mary in 1689, he was pardoned and granted a pension of £260 a year, but his reputation did not recover. The pension was suspended, but in 1698 was restored and increased to £300 a year. Oates died on 12 or 13 July 1705, quite forgotten by the public which had once called him a hero.
William Massey inherited the Puddington estate in 1674, was devoutly Catholic, and was briefly arrested with Plessington. In 1683, during the disturbances which followed the discovery of the Rye House Plot (an actual plan to assassinate King Charles II), he appears to have come in for a good deal of suspicion, as among Lord Kilmorey's papers is mention of a writ being issued to search the house of Mr. Massey, of Puddington, for concealed arms. In later life he joined an uprising in Lancashire in favor of the exiled James Stuart in late 1715. When the rebel army was soundly beaten and surrendered at Preston on 14 November, William returned to Puddington: according to tradition he avoided capture (at the age of 60) by swimming his horse across the Mersey between Speke and Hooton (three miles) and riding non-stop while on land. Sadly upon his safe return to Puddington the exhausted horse fell dead as it was led to his stable. Massey was soon seized and cast into a cell at Chester Castle where he died within three months (some say within a few days). After the government's victory at Preston, c. 500 Jacobite prisoners were brought to the castle. Because of a quarrel between the governor and Chester corporation they were held there until 1717 in crowded conditions, and disease spread from them to the soldiers. Hemingway, in his History of Chester, mentions the following:
- "This winter Lord Charles Murray (son to the Duke of Athol) with several gentlemen, and a great number of private men, who had been taken (November 13th) in the rebellion at Preston, were brought prisoners to Chester Castle. The weather was very severe, and the snow lay a yard deep in the roads. Many of the above mentioned prisoners died in the castle by the severity of the season; many were carried off by a very malignant fever; and most of the survivors were transported to the plantations in America. As the castle was quite filled with these prisoners, the Lent Assizes were held in Northwich."
In 1980 then the road by which the George Marsh obelisk stands was being widened, the obelisk was sent for repair and the following words were added to it:
- "John Plessington Catholic Priest, martyred here on 19th July 1679. Canonised Saint 25th October 1970"
A shrine to Plessington exists at St Francis in Grosvenor Street (there is a guide here) where a small piece of blood-stained linen and a lock of hair are treasured as a relic. Statues and stained-glass windows were installed in his honour in St Laurence’s, Birkenhead, and St Werburgh’s, Chester. John Plessington was supposedly buried in the churchyard of St Nicholas’s, Burton, after Puddington locals would not allow his quarters to be displayed at the Old Hall and stoned the troops who arrived with the body parts. Instead the body ended-up on the kitchen table at Puddington Old Hall. The story was that he was buried at Burton but when that grave was opened in 1962 a team from Liverpool University instead recovered the skeleton of a man some 15 years younger, bearing an injury to the neck which indicated he might have been hanged.
In 1878 bones were discovered hidden in the "Old Star Inn", a pub next to St Winefride’s Well in Flintshire. These bones were taken to the Jesuit retreat house of St. Beuno’s and venerated as the relics of an anonymous martyr. Forensic scientists from Edinburgh University who examined the bones in 2015 said they are the skull and the right leg of a man who had been hanged, drawn and quartered. The sacrum, the large triangular bone at the rear of the pelvis, had been chopped in half, neck vertebrae bore axe or cleaver wounds and the skull has a hole punctured by a pike pushed through the head. The bones were found wrapped in a child's bodice dated to the period of Plessington’s execution. A stained glass window in St Winefride’s Church, Holywell, depicts John Plessington ministering to a kneeling woman then giving his speech on the day of his execution at Boughton.
Witches
The mid-17th Century bore witness to the infamous “European Witch Craze“, a period of frenzied witchcraft accusations, prosecutions and executions, which are thought to have claimed the lives of up to one hundred thousand men, women and children across the continent. At least three "witches" were hung at Boughton (a fourth is said to have fled to Wrexham): see Witch Trials for more details. Those hanged (15th October 1656) included:
- Ellen Beach who "did exercise and practice the Invocation and conjuration of evil and wicked spirits, and consulted and covenanted with, entertayned, imployed, ffed and rewarded certayn evill and wicked spirits",
- Anne Osboston having "on the 20th November exercised certayn artes and Incantations on Barbara Pott, late wife of John Pott, of Ranowe, from the effects whereof she died on the 20th of January then next following", and, lastly,
- Anne Thornton who did "wickedly, divillishly and feloniously devise, excercise and practiuce certaiyne divellish and wicked acts".
Quite a bit of local myth surrounds the witches of Boughton. Some city guides will state that there were a vast number of witch burnings, when in fact there were relatively few hangings. Others will state that nearby Barrel Well Hill takes its name from the practice of rolling supposed witches down the hill in barrels to see if they "sank or swam" and thus determine their guilt. Again, this is nonsense. Yet another probable myth is that in 1898, Michael Goble, a local historian, began investigating and researching the story of the Boughton witches. He is reputed to have claimed that during the course of his research he was visited by the spirits of three demented women, who threatened to bring forth the devil should the historian not pledge to abandon his investigation immediately. Undaunted, Michael Goble continued to pursue his project, but never saw it finished. He supposedly died in 1902, - whilst visiting Gallows Hill. Apart from a mention in a few guidebooks there is no evidence that Goble ever existed.
There was one burning at the stake: in 1763 Mary Heald, a quaker from Tatton near Knutsford, was convicted of the murder of her husband, Samuel. She put arsenic in his "fleetings", a form of milk curds, and was committed to the castle at Chester, and then found guilty. She was "burnt to death" but strangled first. The Courant newspaper reported the events as follows:
- "Chester, April 26th. In our last issue were mention'd the trial and condemnation of Mary Heald; as also, that the judges had been pleased to respite her execution until Saturday, the 23'd inst. Accordingly, soon after ten of the clock in the forenoon of that day, the sheriffs of Chester, with their attendants, came to Gloverstone [neutral ground between City and Castle, just outside the latter's main gate], where the gaoler of the Castle deliver'd to them the said Mary Heald; who, pursuant to sentence, was drawn from thence in a sledge, through the city to Spital Boughton; where after due time having been allowed for her private devotion, she was affixed to a stake, on the north side of the great road, almost opposite to the gallows: and having been first strangled, faggots, pitch barrels, and other combustibles, were properly placed all around her, and the fire being lighted up, her body was consumed to ashes. This unhappy woman behaved with much decency, and left an authentick written declaration, confessing her crime and expressing much penitence and contrition."
The Assembly Records note the expenses:
- "Upon reading the petition of Sheriffs John Drake and Wm Dicas for 12 pounds,16 shillings and 8 pence expenses for the execution of Mary Heald, who was burned at Spittle Boughton on Saturday 23 April (1763) for the murder (by poisoning) of her husband, which exceeded those normally disbursed by the Sheriffs for the common execution of felons and malefactors, the Treasurer was orderedd to pay the same."
It seems strange to think that the first local newspaper was in circulation before the last "buring at the stake", but she was the last person to be burnt at Chester. The last to be burned anywhere else in England appears to have been Catherine Murphy (died 18 March 1789) convicted for coining and "drest in a clean striped gown, a white ribbon, and a black ribbon round her cap". Burning as a method of execution was abolished the next year, by the Treason Act 1790.
Drowning and Hanging
Gallows Hill, as its name suggests, was the Tyburn of Chester and the exact location may well be the small park near the house "Edgeley". A wealth of gory detail can be found in Roy Wilding's book 'Death in Chester', and on the page Execution at Chester. The following tale about the gallows is found in Joseph Hemingway's History of the City of Chester - written in 1831:
- "About the centre of this elegant group of buildings, thirty years ago, stood that memento mori to the passing traveller, vulgarly called the gallows, where many of our unfortunate fellow creatures have forfeited their lives to the violated laws of their country. A short time prior to this period, this terrific engine of death had its station exactly on the opposite side of the road, which, on account of its elevated situation, received the appellation of Gallows Hill, which, hy a precipitate descent, and without an inclosure, went down to the Dee. There is an incident connected with this place of execution worthy of recording. In May, 1801, as three malefactors, convicted of burglary at the spring assizes, were conveying to execution in a cart, one of them, named Clare, when opposite the gallows, and just when the vehicle was turning, gave a sudden spring, and threw himself upon the top of the precipice descending to the river, and jumped, rolled, and tumbled along till he was precipitated into it. The weight of his irons sunk him to the bottom, and before he could be brought up, life was entirely extinct. Although the unfortunate fellow thus evaded the letter of his sentence, in escaping being hanged by the neck till he was dead, yet the finisher of the law was unwilling to forego his official duty, and the dead body of the criminal was tied up after his breath had departed. The most afflictive part of the tragedy was, that the two poor men who were in a like condemnation, were kept in a state of awful suspense until the dead carcase of the drowned man was tied up beside them."
The Museum of Policing in Cheshire records that on May 9th 1801 "Thompson, Morgan and Clare" were indeed executed for burglary. However "Infamous Cheshire" records that while Thompson and Morgan were unpopular forgers who had "cheated and ruined the lives of a number of local people", John Clare had some sympathy because he had committed a relatively minor crime. At his trial, John Clare had shouted that "he would never hang" - technically he did hang, although he drowned first.
"Thompson, Morgan and Clare" was the last public execution at Gallows Hill. After 1801, condemned men (and women) were sent to Northgate Gaol for execution, and later, to the City Gaol. In 1868 public execution was abolished in the UK. In 1866, the County Gaol moved to Knutsford and further executions occurred there until 1912. When Knutsford was commandeered by the military in 1914, condemned criminals were sent to Walton (Liverpool) or Strangeways (Manchester) for execution. The death penalty was finally, effectively abolished on 9th November 1964.
Exploring The History
One way to explore the history of the area on foot is to start at St Johns with its statue of St Giles above the main door. It was from the collapsed tower of this church that the city was sniped at during the Civil War when the Parliamentarians under Michael Jones had breached the defences near St Giles Cemetery and over-ran Boughton. The story goes that Charles I almost got hiself shot from here while standing on the Cathedral tower. From there one can take either of two routes down to the Groves and head eastwards along the riverside noting the Hermitage en route. At the Suspension Bridge a short diversion into Grosvenor Park reveals the remains of Jacobs Well the first (inactive) drinking fountain on the route. It was illustrated in its original location by George Angelo Bell who did much work on the Water Supply of Chester. Heading eastwards either through the lower part of the park or along the Groves. This was once known as "the Earl of Derby's Deeside", once the site of the home of William Stanley, who is often cited as a possible author of the works of Shakespeare (see: Shakespeare and Chester). Further on is Billy Hobbies Well, the work of John Douglas. At the foot of Dee Lane a small set of steps down to the river marks one end of a bridge of boats built during the Civil War and the disturbed ground on the further shore marks the site of a fort. Dee Lane is a bit of an uphill slog and at the top of it, on the corner of Foregate Street / Boughton is the site of the Mayor's house. When Jones breached the defences the Mayor apparently fled in his nightshirt leaving behind both his regalia and his wife. From here it is a flat walk along Boughton following what was once the Trams route. Barrel Well Hill leads down to another well behind St Paul's Church, and just after the branch down the hill is the monument to Marsh and Plessington and hereabouts was Gallows Hill. Heading on to pass St Paul's one reaches St Giles Cemetery and the last inactive drinking fountain on the route. The area around "The Mount Inn" (where thirst may possibly be quenched) was a popular spot for artists to create views of Chester (see: Prospect of Chester).
Sources and links
Related Pages
- Graveyard;
- Battle of Hoole Heath;
- Execution at Chester;
- Witch Trials;
- Clockmaker;
- Black Sunday;
- Boughton;
- Earls Eye;
Online
- British History Online;
- Drinking Fountain Listed Building Status;
- Spital Boughton's Litany of Death and Martyrdom on A Virtual Stroll Around the Walls of Chester;
- Chestertourist's History of Boughton;
- Around Chester;
- Public Executions In Chester From 16th Century as listed by the Museum of Policing in Cheshire;
- Character assessment of the area;