Brook Street

History
Brook Street developed along the principal route northwards out of the City to Warrington thus linking the historic lowest crossing points of the Rivers Dee and Mersey. On leaving the City the street fell at a very gentle grade to the Flookersbrook, then a meandering stream flowing through marshy ground that separated the township of Hoole from the City. The street has a history of being cut through by new transport systems. This with the exception of the coming of the ring road had a beneficial impact on the economy of the street. In the 1770s the Chester Canal cut the upper end of the street where, until its rebuilding in the 1950s, Cow Lane Bridge acted as a pinch point separating Brook Street from Frodsham Street (Cow Lane). In the 1840s the lower part of the street was severed by the railway, the new Hoole Railway Bridge leaving a part of the street sometimes known as Lower Brook Street truncated by the railway station. The ring road severed the street just below the canal crossing at Cow Lane Bridge, the short length of Brook Street between the two now being known as Brookside. This upper part of the street adjoined The Gorse Stacks, an area that from medieval times had developed as the City's livestock market.



Today there is little evidence of buildings earlier than the mid 18th century. The outer ramparts of the Civil War siege defences lay in part at the southern end of the present street, and it is likely that any earlier buildings were destroyed during the siege. A bowling green has been located towards the upper end of Brook Street since Georgian times or earlier, although the most recent green now the site of an apartment complex appears to date from the rebuilding of the Old Bowling Green (now Catholic Social Club) in the early 20th century.

Map evidence provided by the Lavaux Map of 1745 shows that until the mid 18th century the street remained relatively undeveloped and comprised primary fields with limited numbers of buildings, which were concentrated towards the City end of the street. It is likely that many of these buildings were associated with the activities of the Gorse Stacks Market although even in this area much of the eastern side of the street was open to the Bowling Green and land known as the Justing Crofts, which separated the Kaleyards from the densely developed Foregate Street and Cow Lane.

Mutlow and StockdaIes Map of 1795 shows that by the last quarter of the 18th century the developed frontage of Brook Street had extended, on its western side to the junction with what was to become Brook Place and on the east side to what would become Egerton Street. Many of the late Georgian cottage rows such as numbers 39-61, 50-56, 72-82, appear to be associated with this era.

An 1825 Map shows that by this date all of the houses on the east side of Lower Brook Street have been built, whilst the western side of the street has been developed to the junction with Egerton Street. At this time it would appear that the street was principally residential in character. By this date Newtown has been named and was beginning to be laid out, although at this time it only extended for one block beyond George Street and the Cattle Market as Oulton, William and Thomas Streets. By this date also Charles, Milton and Egerton Street have been laid out but little of Francis Street. The increased pace and status of development along the street might be judged from Joseph Hemingway’s 1829 “Perambulation of Chester” in which he describes Brook Street as being "respectable" in appearance (as compared to "mean and miserable" Frodsham street):


 * "The next opening presented by Foregate street is on the north side named Frodsham street formerly called Cow lane and still more remotely Coole's lane It is one of the principal entrances into the city from Manchester Warrington and Frodsham the houses are generally of the meanest description the street narrow filthy and iuconvenient and but ill accords with the more distant approach at the beautiful hamlet of Flookersbrook and the respectable appearance of Brook street This street has excellent capabilities of being widened and improved there being abundance of vacant ground behind particularly on the east side where the houses are most miserable but as the property has a great number of owners who are generally in humble circumstances there is no immediate prospect of any material improvement here."

Evidence of the more gentile character of the street at this time is provided by the late Georgian terraces 112-118, 120-124, 100-108 together with individual houses such as 71, 73/75.



Wood’s Map of 1833 shows that Francis Street had been laid out although most of the streets on the east side of Brook Street were only developed towards the canal. By this time also, and before the arrival of the railway much of the settlement of Newtown had been laid out. The principal thoroughfare of St Anne Street had been laid-out and partially developed and the intervening streets between this and Brook and George Streets were now virtually fully developed. Beyond, at the heart of today’s Newtown, Cornwall, Gloucester and Trafford Streets had been laid out but were not yet developed. By 1838 the first Christ Church was to be built in this area. In 1847-48 Chester Station was built just beyond the northern end of Brook Street. The coming of the railway hastened the development already underway in the Egerton & Francis Street areas and Newtown.



In Newtown small terraced houses were built without front or back gardens but after 1845 with individual yards and back access. Employment on the railways was undoubtedly part of the reason for the rapid development of the area, though the railway companies apparently did not themselves provide workers' housing. Further working-class terraces were built east of Brook Street, where development was restricted by the L.N.W.R. wagon repair works and the laying out of City Road in the early 1860s. The area between Egerton Street and City Road was covered with terraced housing by the early 1870s, after which it spread east of City Road on to the Leadworks garden, sold off for building in the 1890s.

Progressively the residential character of the area became mingled with industrial enterprises, at first these were located along the canal, examples including the pioneering steam powered corn mill of the 1700s and Walker and Maltbys Leadworks of 1800. By 1825 the extensive leather tannery, doubtless associated with the proximity of the cattle market had been established on the western side of the street and this partly survives today as retail premises 99-103 Brook Street: its surviving facade from 101 to 103A provides the only building of industrial character to the street frontage. Although of only one and a half storey, it has a rugged character with ton slate roofs, brick in English garden wall bond, and distinctive round-headed multi pane iron windows to the attic storey. Like other earlier buildings, these too have been adapted for retail use. In 1805 in nearby James Street, William Cole, Thomas Whittle and Johnson established the Flookersbrook Foundry (see: Industrial Revolution). In 1874 this became the nationally important Chester Hydraulic Company whose works came to occupy most of the large triangular plot of land between Brook and Egerton Streets. A measure of the industrial development of the area might be gained from White's Gazetteer, the entry for 1860 showing five engineering works and four foundries where at the turn of the century there had been none. The Egerton Iron and Brass Foundry, operated by James Mowle & Co. in 1871 and Mowle and Meacock by 1892, lay between Crewe Street and Albert Street, but had been demolished by 1910 when Egerton Street school was built on the site. The Providence Iron and Brass Foundry of H. Lanceley and Son, founded in George Street around 1869, moved later to a group of mostly single-storeyed buildings on the west side of Brook Street previously used by a tannery. Egerton Street Saw Mill was a threestoreyed range incorporating offices at the street end and works with an arcaded ground floor at the rear, probably built in the mid 19th century; by 1906 it was occupied by paint manufacturers.

At about this time the residential character of the street began to change as it developed a retail function servicing the adjoining areas of workers' housing. Many of the existing dwellings were adapted to this new function - the cottage rows, along with many of the higher status buildings acquiring shop fronts. Only in Lower Brook Street was the residential character maintained. New purpose-built shops were constructed during the late 19th and early 20th century, apparently replacing earlier buildings most likely to be similar to the late Georgian cottage ranges. At this time Brook Street followed the trend established in the principal streets of the City acquiring a variety of Tudor revival buildings. Some were associated with retail functions such as, 60, 84/86/83, others entertainment such as 95-97; the former Majestic Cinema. Most notable however is in the collection of rebuilt public houses such as The Bowling Green (now Catholic Social Club), The Stanley, The Old Cottage and The Railway. Seeking a different architectural style, the former Cocoa Rooms (121) provides a fine but solitary representative of the Arts and Crafts movement.

In 1840, before the construction of the General Station (1847-8) the area to the immediate west of the present station was occupied by two temporary stations, one for the Chester & Birkenhead Railway and the other for the Chester & Crewe Railway, Chester & Holyhead and Chester & Shrewsbury. Although consideration was given to relocating the General Station closer to the City Centre, it was decided to consolidate the operation about the existing track. In his Stranger's Guide of 1859 Thomas Hughes comments on the route from the station to the City by Brook Street saying that:


 * "its many parts inconveniently narrow, abounding in sharp curves and unsightly proportions and certainly nowise equal to the continually increased traffic".

At the northern end of Brook Street lay extensive railway wagon works on both sides of Brook Street adjacent to the General station.

Architecture


Although rather neglected Brook Street is fronted by a great variety of buildings, most of which have some architectural and historic interest. Many of the buildings that front Brook Street are small-scale two storey terraces, likely to be late Georgian in origin. Examples include 45-61, 50-56, 72-82 and 105-111. Although originally thought to have been cottages, they have without exception converted to shops during Victorian times. These buildings are constructed of brick, although a number have been finished with a traditional lined stucco render (72-82) and now most of the buildings have painted walls. Roofs are of low pitch originally in slate with simple eaves details. Gutters are usually of iron to conventional section, although there are some examples of timber box guttering (50-56) exceptionally with a simple decorative motif carved into the boards. The stacks are simply constructed in brick but form an important element of the architectural composition, breaking the long continuous low roofline, distinguishing each component of the row and providing a bold feature that adds scale and verticality to the terraces. Window openings are small, typically they would have accommodated two element horizontal sliding sashes or side hung casements with simple subdivision of panes. Many have some surviving elements of simple but well executed shop fronts often partially concealed by later accretions. They feature simple timber pilasters, fascias and cornices entirely appropriate to the character and scale of the properties into which they have been inserted. Of similar age and style, there are several three-storey cottage pairs/terraces including 58/60 and 88/90. They have a lined stucco render, simple slate roofs with cast or timber box gutters, and simple horizontal sashes or casements. Like their companion two storey rows, they were also adapted for retail use in Victorian times. Interspersed with these buildings, and often located at prominent positions on street corners, are a variety of early 19th century dwellings of higher status. They feature slate roofs of low pitch, some with large ton slates. The eaves are formed of stone cornice gutters; some have surviving lead fall-pipes. Windows are more formal multipane vertical sliding sashes. Formal panelled entrance doorways with cases and fanlights survive at 76 and 94. Construction is of brick in Flemish bond as at 71 and 73/76 flanking Brook Place, or in lined stucco render as at 94/96 on the corner of Egerton Street. With the exception of 96, now the Egerton Arms, all have been adapted to retail use in Victorian times. In the case of 73/76 by infilling the garden frontage with a pair of Victorian shops, which retain many original features, including a prominent coved fascia.

Number 24-26
Ye Olde Bowling Green Hotel, later public house, now licensed club. 1913-14. By John Davies and Sons. For Greenall Whitley and Co. English garden wall bond red-brown brick with yellow sandstone dressings and timber frame with plaster panels; pebbledash; graded Westmorland green slate roof. A fine example of Chester's vernacular revival style with rear in domestic Queen Anne style. 2 storeys; two 3-window wings at right angles, one to Brook Street, the other to Milton Street deeply recessed to contain a corner entrance. Ground floor of brick dressed with yellow sandstone; mullioned and transomed leaded casements and canted bay windows to each wing; double part-glazed panelled oak doors in Roman Doric porch with entablature and upper storey of stone-dressed brick between 2 projecting plinthed chimneys with lozenge flues in an Elizabethan manner. The first floor has ornate small framing with jetties on herms and quadrant and curved herringbone braces; mullioned leaded casements and oriels; well-handled informally composed roofs. The rear is pebbledashed; a one-storey rear wing provides balcony to first floor with shaped splat balusters; small-pane windows standing proud of wall-face; 2 canted bays; modillion cornices and eaves; 5 plinthed chimneys with lozenge flues. This is the most substantial and well-composed example of John Davies's Vernacular Revival public houses in Chester. The bowling green behind was one of the oldest in Britain - having been in use since before 1745 - but, in 2001 it was partially destroyed when the Catholic Church sold the land for the erection of a development of retirement apartments. The remainder is however still occassionally used for bowls.

On the wall, at the corner of Milton Street, the faded letters "EWS" can be seen in yellow paint. This dates from WW2 and indicates the location of an "Emergency Water Supply"


 * At British Listed Buildings;
 * Geograph;

Number 34-36
The Olde Cottage Inn two and three storey to 34 and 36 respectively. Late 19th century. Ground floor frontage and principal elevation to James Street in narrow Ruabon brick with sandstone reveals to wall openings and stone cornice. First floor in painted rough cast to 36, to 34 in timber frame. Second floor to no 34 in timber frame mostly of close studding, jettied timber framed gables to street to both 34 & 36. Stacks in Ruabon brick, red clay tile roof of two transverse piles. Windows leaded casements and to second floor, mostly as oriels. Windows, set back to ground planted to first and flush to second floors.

Number 38
One-and-a-half/two storey, greatly modified two storey cottage range. Has had inter-war years Art Deco make-over with symmetrically arranged deeply recessed shop front in steel with vitrolite stall riser and pilasters which rise to first floor window head. It would seem that as originally installed this would have risen to one and a half storeys to provide display window. Now modified with lower infill panel and narrow horizontal slit window above. Crude brick above corniced window head likely to have also featured a vitrolite fascia. Longitudinal roof of concrete tile, stacks lost.

Number 40
Two storey house. 19th century plain painted brick frontage likely to have been rebuilt rising to shallow parapet coped with concrete. Longitudinal roof ridge concrete tile, stack to full height to north side.

Number 42-44
Two storey house likely to be of one build, early 19th century, painted brick with stone cornice gutter roof of ridged concrete tile, most stacks demolished one to full height with square terracotta pots at north end. Each unit has one upper floor window opening of sash proportions recessed with stone cills, flat brick head to 44, raised to timber lintel to 42.

Number 46
Early 19th century house likely to be single build with 42 and 44, painted brick with stone cornice gutter, flat concrete tile roof, longitudinal to Brook Street with hip above at junction with roof to rear wing fronting Charles Street. Windows of sash proportions, stone cills, flat timber lintels. Two over two recessed sashes in reveals to Brook Street elevation. Charles Street elevation has blocked up shop front opening of earlier shop front.

Number 48
Post Office. Late 18th century cottage row. Highly altered elevation, painted Tyrolean type render. Longitudinal slate roof, timber box gutter. Stacks demolished, replaced three element Crittall steel window to Brook Street ,and Charles Street where 2 over 2 sash remains. Shop frontage appears to have originally had splayed entrance on street corner now blocked.

Number 50
Cottage row late 18th century, possibly same build as 48 but with lower ridge. Painted textured render on brick, longitudinal slate roof, timber box gutter, stack lost.

Number 52
Fully renovated under HERs scheme. Late 18th century cottage row, likely to be contemporary with 50 and 54, stucco rendered over brick, longitudinal slate roof, reinstated stack, timber box gutter, recessed two over two sash with stone cill and segmented head. Restored traditional shop front.

Number 54
Fully renovated under HERs scheme. Late 18th century cottage row, likely same build as 52 and 50, stucco rendered brick, longitudinal slate roof, box gutter, stack, 8 over 8 flush sash beneath flat timber lintel, restored Victorian shop front.

Number 56-58
Fully renovated under HERs scheme. Three storey late 18th century house, stucco render over brick, longitudinal slate roof, decorative parapet gutter, reinstated stacks, flush 8 over 8 and four 8 sashes, reinstated Victorian shop front.

Number 60
Late 19th century in vernacular revival timber frame with transverse slate roof, retail premises with living accommodation above and work shops behind. Four storeys, narrow frontage in timber frame with much decorative bracing, windows leaded and plain casements, upper floors as oriels and jetties, reinstated recessed shop front.

Number 62
Three storey late 19th century retail premises with living accommodation over. Ruabon brick, elevational treatment in Flemish style with shaped gable, terminal and intermediate plain pilasters forming three recessed bays of brick work, transverse roof of concrete tile, 6 over 1 and 9 over 1 shallowly recessed sashes, first floor with central oriel window with hipped slate roof.

Number 64-70
Block of plain Edwardian retail units of single build with living accommodation above. Originally providing 4 retail units. Three storey in Ruabon brick with slate roof now replaced in concrete, stacks survive only to 68, plain frontage save for sandstone bands at each cill level. Sash proportioned windows openings now with upvc windows beneath sandstone heads, first floor having brick segmented relieving arches above.

Number 72-82
Two storey late 19th to early 20th century cottage range likely one build to number 82. Two storey painted rendered brick, concrete longitudinal tile roof stack lost, single flush casement window, stone cill segmental head. 80-82 repaired and restored under HERs scheme, stucco render on brick, slate roof box gutters reinstated stacks, replica shop fronts, flush casement windows.

Number 92
Extensively altered building with elegant curved glass shop front and large 1960s display window to whole width of first floor, flat roof, tall "Mock Tudor" parapet upstand suggesting possible original 3 storey building, although not of same build as 94 & 96 adjoining. Now has only two floors.

Number 94
Late 18th century town house, Three storeys and of 2 bays, stucco rendered, longitudinal slate roof, stacks demolished, stone cornice gutters. Intersting windows with flush sashes, 4 over 4 to 2nd floor, 6 over 6 to 1st floor. Extensively modified and restored.

Number 96
Egerton Arms. 18th century town house, three storey of 2 bays possibly one build with 94 Brook Street. Two bay return to Egerton Street with splayed corner doorway. Longitudinal slate roof with hips, retained stack, stone cornice gutter, painted stucco render, run mouldings to window reveals. Cover 6 sashes to 1st floor, various plain and multipane transome lights to ground and 1st floors. Original splayed entrance at corner Brook and Egerton Streets.

Number 37-39
Stanley Arms, built in 1925.

Number 41-43
Set of former cottages in cottage row extending to 61, longitudinal slate roof, rendered stacks retains, stuccoed render to brick, original window openings with two element replaced modern casement windows.

Number 95
Repaired and restored using LOTS & HERs grant. Two storey timber framed frontage, remainder brick. This was the location of an early 20th century cinema. Double pile transverse roof with jettied coved timber framed gables to street, with square frame with herringbone/diamond bracing, 1st floor of close stud box framing with both bays having splayed oriel window.

Number 105
Two storey late 19th early 20th century retail unit with accommodation above. Ruabon brick, transverse slate roof gable parapet steps out with splayed brick, 2 windows to 2nd floor replaced with upvc until recently 2 over 2 sashes, shop front remains virtually intact although altered glazing.

Number 113-115
Pair of early 19th century town houses, 2 storey transverse slate roof, truncated stacks, brick upper floor windows of sash proportion but replaced with modern timber casements. Stone cills and brick flat arches, modern heritage shop fronts of reasonable design

Number 119
Former Railway Inn. Late 19th early 20th century timber frame public house. Complex roof geometry including jettied gables to splay of road junction and on return to Hoole Way junction, graduated Westmorland slate roof stacks with oversailing courses retained. Varied timber frame styles to 1st floor, ground floor brick with stone dressings to window opening. Ground floor windows leaded casements in timber frames set back in reveals, and to 1st floor, planted wooden frames with metal casements.

Number 121
Former "Railway Cocoa Rooms", repaired and enhanced with HERs grant. This is a high quality building in the Arts & Crafts style. Second storey at north end single storey to south terminating in octagonal turret (containg spiral stair). The roof was previously in purple slate but this has been replaced with green Penrhyn slate. Second storey element has half dormers for upper floor windows, single storey element terminates in timber framed gable to Hoole Way junction. Second storey has slate hung first floor, elsewhere brick. Ground floor to Brook Street is partly in timber frame with herringbone brick noggin. Pargetted panel to Brook Street, Scraffitti panel to Hoole Way junction both bear name of establishment, decorative motifs to Hoole Way of Cocoa plants to Brook Street of cormorants ("liver birds") and cherubs. Windows multipane iron casements in timber frames. Stacks survive. Well detailed with oversailing.

For many years after it ceased to be the "Railway Cocoa Rooms" this was the home of "City Strippers" a firm specialising in restored pine goods, for a while it was an excellent Greek restaurant, then an even better Italian restaurant, and in 2015 it is a bar supplied by a microbrewery.

sources and links

 * Vanished Pubs of Chester on Brook Street;
 * Shopping on Brook Street by Chestertourist;